Hello everyone. This is video 6  on how I went about producing this Krevnov Style Cabinet. It is based on the article in the Fine woodworking magazine - issue 208. I did some slight modifications to the featured cabinet in the issue -   like replacing the glass on the doors with Birds Eye Huon Pine Panels.

Now back to the back panel. for the joints, the Ozzie jig is not that useful in this situation because I can only get one dowel to fit with the jig. Its too close to the corners if I try to fit a 2nd dowel into the joint. Instead - I will use the Festool Domino for the joint. I think that 1 Domino is just as good as 2 dowels. So what I'll do now is work out where each domino is going to go, then mark it so we can then do some cutting. As you can see, cutting with the Domino is pretty straight forward and easy. Much less calculations and fussing about compared to most of the traditional joints used for this situation. If your wondering what the brown piece is for, its just a packer I use to lift the domino 1mm higher to centre the cut. What I do now is dry fit the panel and mark out where the Veneered board will sit in the frame.  I move the frame up and down to try and get the best figure to show through. I will be cutting a 1/2" slot into the frame so I will then make the board 10mm larger on all 4 sides.  I then use a pencil to mark out where I will be cutting this board on the Table saw. While the frame is still together, I use a 1/2" slot cutter to cut out a slot which will hold the veneered board in place. When using the router table, I always do a double pass to ensure that I cut everything out correctly - nothing worse than having to go back and redo a section that you have missed.

The next step is to cut the veneer board to size. This is my home made zero tolerance table saw sled. Its really easy to use, you just line up the pencil marks on the sled and start cutting. I then give the board a good sand, starting at 120 all the way through to 320 grit. You have to be careful not to sand off too much. This is because the veneer is only 0.67mm thick. I have been know to sometimes sand through to the backing board. Not a pleasant experience. Once the sanding has been done, I then glue together the back panel. Again I use Titebond 3 as the glue and again the Bessey K Body clamps are a joy to use. Nothing fancy with the glue up. You have to check that the panel is nice and flat once you have got the clamps tightened otherwise your going to have big problems in the next step of the glue up. I am checking here with a straight edge to ensure that the panel is flat. While were waiting for the panel to dry, I cut a rebate on the back of the cabinet. I use a slot cutter to cut a slot the same thickness as the back panel. I use a different method to the magazine - I am treating the cabinet like it is a big box with a thick base. I though that I had a pretty big router table, but in this situation, the table was about 3 inches too short which made this process pretty difficult. Once the back panel has dried, we can then give the back panel a good sand. I sand from 80 grit through 120, 180, 240 then with 320 grit sand paper. You have to be careful not to hit the veneered board because that has already been sanded to 320 grit. I then dry fit the top cabinet.

Sometimes I wonder why I make videos. It takes me about 2 to 3 times longer than usual because I muck around with the camera and redo bits that didn't shoot well. Then there are moments like this, where I turn the cabinet around so that I can show you what the cabinet looks like. Bugger! Should of just left with out showing you. I just want to give you a good look of the Birds Eye Huon Pine Veneer - One of my favourite timbers in the world.

In the next video, we make the doors and get them ready for the cabinet.

I then dry fit the top cabinet.