How to Choose the Right Bandsaw

Whether you're just starting out or have been building for years, understanding your tools—and your timber—is essential.

In this post, we take a closer look at band saw types, key features, and what you need to know about timber movement to keep your projects strong and stable over time.

Choosing the Right Bandsaw

There are two main types of bandsaws:

• Floor-standing cabinet models

• Stand or benchtop models

Cabinet models are typically built for professional use. They’re heavier, have more features, and pack larger motors—all of which contribute to more consistent cutting performance. Their sturdier frames also reduce vibration and improve accuracy.

That said, benchtop models can still deliver professional results. For home-based woodworkers with limited space or budget, a well-tuned benchtop bandsaw can be an excellent choice.

Key Specs to Understand: Depth of Cut & Throat Capacity

When comparing bandsaws, two critical measurements often come up: depth of cut and throat.

Depth of cut refers to the distance from the table to the upper blade guides. This tells you how thick a piece of timber the saw can handle. Some bandsaws offer a modest 6" cut depth—but many can be fitted with an optional riser block to increase that capacity, especially useful for resawing thick stock.

Throat is the distance from the blade to the vertical frame. It determines how wide a piece of timber you can maneuver through the blade. For example, an “18-inch bandsaw” means it has an 18-inch throat.

Motor Size and Table Features

Most home shop bandsaws come with a ¾ to 1 horsepower motor, which is perfectly adequate for most woodworking tasks. Professional models usually offer larger motors and variable speed controls—though for woodworkers, max speed is typically best unless you're cutting metals or plastics.

Every bandsaw should come with a solid worktable—ideally cast iron, steel, or aluminium alloy—that tilts to 45 degrees for angled cuts. Look for:

• A mitre track

• Dust collection port (to connect your shop vac)

• Quality band wheels with cleaning brushes

These features make the machine more versatile and help keep your workspace clean and safe.

Useful Add-ons: Fence and Mitre Gauge

If your bandsaw doesn’t come with them, consider adding:

• A rip fence – essential for accurate straight cuts and resawing

• A mitre gauge – useful for angled or crosscuts

Together, these additions dramatically improve the functionality and accuracy of your machine.

Safety and Setup Matter

Bandsaws are among the safest woodworking machines—if properly set up.

Blade tension, guide alignment, and tracking all need to be dialled in before use. Once that’s done, a bandsaw is a joy to work with, particularly for curved cuts, resawing, and joinery tasks.

Need help choosing the right bandsaw for your shop? Get in touch with the team at Timberbits — we’re happy to guide you.

Understanding Timber Movement

Nothing frustrates a woodworker more than spending hours (or weeks) building a project—only to watch it twist, split, or warp.

Doors won’t close, lids won’t sit flush. The culprit? Timber movement.

Why Timber Moves

Timber acts like a sponge. When humidity rises, it absorbs moisture from the air and swells. When the air dries, it releases moisture and contracts. This movement happens across the grain, not along its length—and it can be significant.

A 300mm-wide board, for example, may expand or contract up to 3mm with seasonal changes. That might not sound like much, but it’s more than enough to cause cracking, warping, or joint failure if your design doesn’t account for it.

The Solution: Design with Movement in Mind

You can’t stop timber from moving—but you can work with it. That means:

• Choosing joinery techniques that allow for expansion

• Gluing in ways that won’t restrain the wood too tightly

• Understanding how different cuts of timber (quartersawn vs flatsawn) behave

With experience, you’ll start to design and build in ways that respect timber’s natural rhythm with the seasons.

Kiln-Dried vs Air-Dried Timber

There are two main ways timber is dried before use:

Kiln drying involves placing timber in a heated chamber to rapidly remove moisture. This method produces more stable material, ready for use sooner, with minimal movement.

Air drying is slower—requiring months or years—but it’s more traditional. Timber is stacked in layers with small spacers (“stickers”) to allow airflow and left under cover to protect it from rain.

Regardless of the method, always check the moisture content of your timber before building. High moisture content is a red flag—it means movement is still likely.

Build Smarter, Not Harder

Whether you're buying a bandsaw or planning your next timber project, a bit of knowledge goes a long way.

Understanding tool features and timber behaviour will help you create stronger, more refined work—and save you frustration down the road.

Need help choosing the right tools or timber? Contact Timberbits or drop by the shop—our team is always here to help.